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“Talha Wine”: The Millennial Treasure of Alentejo revealed on St. Martin’s Day.

Talha Wine article
5 minutes read

Wine is one of the world’s oldest beverages, but few winemaking methods are as ancient and steeped in history as vinho de talha (amphora wine). This Portuguese tradition, deeply rooted in the Alentejo region, dates back thousands of years and culminates annually in a special celebration: St. Martin’s Day (Dia de São Martinho) on 11th November.

Discover the fascinating journey of vinho de talha, from its origins in Georgia to its contemporary rebirth in the south of Portugal.

The Millennial Journey of the “Talha”: From the Caucasus to Alentejo

The history of winemaking in clay vessels, or terracotta amphorae (talhas), begins more than 8,000 years ago in the Caucasus region, particularly in Georgia. The Georgians used (and still use) large amphorae called qvevris to ferment and store their wine.

The technique spread across the Mediterranean and was significantly adopted by the Romans. When they arrived in what is now Portugal in the 2nd century BC, the Romans brought their advanced technology and pottery kilns, which spread throughout Alentejo and Terras do Sado region.

Large Roman villae, such as São Cucufate and Torre de Palma, became centres for wine production, using clay talhas to meet internal and export demands. While the tradition faded in other parts of the world, this practice endured in Alentejo, passed down through generations, often perpetuated by religious orders and local families.

*Reconstruction of a Phoenician wine press at Tell el-Burak (modern-day Lebanon) in the 7th century BCE*

How Vinho de Talha is Born: The Essence of Tradition.

Vinho de talha is made following a process that has remained remarkably unchanged for more than 2,000 years:

Treading and Crushing (A Pisa e o Esmagamento): The grapes (including bunches and stems) are unloaded and trodden in a press (lagar) or often on grating tables (mesas de ripanço) where they will be destemmed.
Resting in “Talha” (O Repouso na Talha): The must (freshly crushed grape juice) is placed in large clay amphorae, the talhas, the interiors of which are traditionally coated with pitch (pine resin), olive oil, or beeswax to ensure they are waterproofed.
Fermentation: Alcoholic fermentation occurs naturally inside the talha, and the skins and seeds (known as the “mother” or solid masses) remain in contact with the must, giving the wine its unique structure, colour, and tannins.

This prolonged skin contact is the key to the distinctive character of vinho de talha.

Vinho de Talha – A singular wine | Vinhos do Alentejo Channel.

St. Martin’s Day: The Day of Revelation.

Tradition dictates that the solid masses must remain in contact with the wine until, at least, St. Martin’s Day (11th November).

It is on this day that, historically, the “Opening of the Talhas” (or tiragem, the drawing-off) took place, the moment the wine was separated from the solid masses.

This date marks the end of fermentation and the beginning of the wine’s stabilisation process. Today, many Alentejo producers celebrate this day with festive events, inviting the public to taste the new wines and honour this millennial heritage.

*The “Opening of the Talhas” event to taste the new wine on St. Martin’s Day, 11th November.*

The 21st-Century Renaissance.

Following a period where vinho de talha almost disappeared, the start of the new millennium brought about a resurgence. Inspired by a global interest in more authentic and natural wines, Alentejo’s major players, including visionary producers such as Herdade do Esporão and Herdade do Rocim, embraced this technique.

In 2010, a ministerial order was introduced to regulate the method, ensuring its fidelity to the ancestral processes. While still a niche, vinho de talha is now one of the most talked-about and proud standard-bearers for Alentejo’s wine culture and identity.

💡 Tip:

According to popular tradition, St. Martin’s Day (11th November) is typically celebrated with the Magusto (a traditional chestnut festival). This festivity often takes place outdoors, where a bonfire is lit to roast chestnuts, which are traditionally eaten accompanied by the famous jeropiga (a sweet liqueur wine) or the new wine.

We strongly recommend pairing your vinho de talha with this delicious and nutritious nut. Chestnuts are a fantastic accompaniment to these wines, especially the more structured red wines that are being drawn from the amphorae at this time of year. Cheers! 🥂